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Intermittent no power; Sometimes no dash lights...nothing.
Topic Started: Jan 3 2017, 11:37 PM (516 Views)
mikerb
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Hi,

I have 1996 Iveco Turbo daily 2.5 59-12 ( 2nd gen).

Just recently when going to start the vehicle I get no power...no dash lights...nothing. The problem is the fault does not stay there long enough to do any real testing. I start running some tests and have the hazards on so I know if the power comes back on. I start doing some tests and the hazards start working meaning power is back again. I have a cut off switch fitted to the neg cable and suspected that so changed it. Testing it is did have a variable resistance so I thought I had found the problem...but not so! I have got as far as being able to test that the battery is OK at 12.6 v and I get the same voltage testing from positive to both chassis and engine so fairly confident the earthing is OK. Having picked up some documentation from here and read through dozens of old posts I think I now have a testing procedure to go through....provided the fault stays there long enough.

Currently the only clues I have are that the power always comes back on after about 10 or 15 minutes when the only place I have been in terms of doing check is in the engine bay and mostly looking at the main power and earth leads off the battery and cut off switch. The cut off switch is always used when the vehicle is left so either I am disturbing a bad cable or contact in that area or power is getting through after an elapsed time.

I need to resolve this before I can take the vehicle for plating so I am really looking for any shortcuts to the most likely cause even if the fault is not on at the time.

ps I have no other electrical problems so I do not suspect the dreaded wet fuse box and certainly from the front all of that looks bone dry.

thanks.
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Bazil-S
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Hi,

There is a two-way connector with flat terminals. It is located under the windshield wiper motor.
Check this connector, most likely is already melted.
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Spooky_b329
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You can create a temporary good earth, with a single jump lead from negative terminal to engine block. If the existing earth is poor, it can be sufficient for low power items, but when you try and draw a large current to start the engine, the resistance will increase significantly.
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mikerb
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@Basil S.....if you are referring to the white Anderson type connectors...yes I found them and they looked OK, ie no obvious dampness or corrosion, but pulling them apart the contacts were quite white so cleaned them up with some sandpaper strips. This last 3 days there has been power everytime it has been checked, and it has not been started, so hopefully that is where the bad connection was and has been fixed, so thanks. It would make sense since it is likely these connectors were disturbed when testing etc under the bonnet which is why the fault would never stay there long enough for me to finish doing tests.

ps The wiring diagram I got from this site said there was one such connector carrying both earth and power ( brown and red). On my vehicle there were however 2 such connectors, one of which had a thickish red cable and the other a similar thickness brown cable.
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mikerb
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So after 4 days of the power being on everytime it was tested, today there was no power again. Having now properly understood the power and erth cable runs I was able to do some tests very quickly.............and I found that the new isolator switch I fitted was a complete open circuit!!!!! Pleased I have found the problem but frustrated that a brand new part should be a pile of rubbish and lead me up the garden path looking for other things.

Anyway, in case it helps someone else I have at least now understood the power and earth wiring runs so very simply this is what it consists of:

Positive: 35mm from battery to starter solenoid ( left hand side of engine looking from the front)
10mm ( red) to a large connector near the wiper motor
from there to Positive connection on the back of the fuse box
from that same fuse box connection another wire(red) to ignition switch.
.....and another feeding electric heater.
Positive is red and coded 7777
( Ignition switched pos is green and coded 8xxx)
The solenoid has 3 connections on the same stud........the 35mm from the battery, a 6mm going to the alternator, and the 10mm going to the connector near the wiper motor ( and then on to the fusebox.

Negative: 35mm from battery to a crankcase connection on left hand side of engine looking from the front
also connected there a 2.5mm to another large connector by the wiper motor
from there to back of fuse box on G10.
Engine to chassis earth is on the right hand side behind the oil filter casing and across to the chassis side of the engine mounting nearby.
Negative is brown and coded 0000

The 2 connectors near the wiper motor motor are therefore convenient testing points to determine whether pos or neg faults are beyond the engine bay and towards the fuse box...or not.
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Spooky_b329
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What was the amp rating of your isolator? Cranking the engine takes a lot of amps, I would guestimate around 300 amps. Might have fried it since fitting!
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mikerb
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I agree...that may be the reason it quickly went faulty but it was sold as an auto part so I would have expected it to be suitable for taking starter amps. I'm looking for a much higher rated one to replace it now though.
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ivecojoe
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If memory serves me correct there is a second large white connector some wheres around under/behind dash where steering column is. Joe
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mikerb
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yes that is probably the one that takes the (red) ignition wire from the +ve connection on the back of the fusebox to the ignition switch. The switched live coming back out on position one of the key is Green.

I was able to test that Earth ( brown) was not present on the other connector by the wiper motor, but +ve was on the connector next to it. I tested for earth on one side of the new isolator switch I fitted ( ie direct from the battery) and that was fine, the second stud on the isolator however had no earth connection. I shorted the two studs on the isolator and power came back on. So the test was definitive. The original switch had similar problems.....one minute it would be OK next minute without even disturbing it, nothing!

The new isolator I bought was £25 and is rated at 250 amp. It is metal bodied and can be taken apart for inspection. The keyed connection is far more solid.

( ps my isolator is across the neg cabling for some reason...but it has been like that for years so I kept it as was)

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