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injector red light
Topic Started: Jun 7 2018, 10:26 PM (194 Views)
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I've been reading the forum for a while, I have a iveco daily 35s12 from 2003.

I bought it in 2015 and it has 315,000 kilometers, I've been making small arrangements, but now I've missed the famous red flashing light.

Previously, the fixed red light was on, but nothing was noticeable in the performance and it was done in a sporadic way.

my van has obd socket, and with programs compatible with alpha / fiat I get error of
fuel pressure sensor
crankshaft sensor
exhaust gas recirculation

The symptoms of the motor are:
normal cold start, normal hot, except if the flashing red light has gone off, then it costs more, about 10 seconds.
it does not smoke white or black
when the flashing red light has less power and from time to time, especially above 3000 rpm has small failures.
the engine at idle has a vibration something more than before, in circulation you can also feel the vibration
tac tac sounds, as if they were injectors does not disappear with the engine hot.

after looking a lot I have three interventions,
change of diesel fuel pressure sensor, which is in the injection pump
fuel return test in injectors (50 30 30 45 ml)
clean liquid injectors xenum in & out
I have checked the visual status of the distribution and crankshaft sensors

with the change of pressure sensor I saw an improvement because before when the red light flashed, it always happens when it reaches 80 degrees, white smoke came out and the engine was more unstable at idle and in acceleration.

It looks like they are injectors but it is an expensive and risky intervention. I also have doubts that the egr valve or a turbo in poor condition can cause these symptoms? or in the worst case, the same injection pump that is in poor condition.

Do you have any suggestions or guidance on where I can look?

Thank you very much!
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Engines fitted:
F1AE0481B*A (116 CV) o o o
F1AE0481B*B (116 CV + E.G.R. + OXICAT)
EGR vv can get clogged up remain open or closed,
Oil vapour/oil from the turbo can line the air intake and be taken in periodically when the engine/air intake gets hot.
Crankshaft speed sensor and wheel can get dirty the sensor needs to be at the correct distance from the wheel. On some older engines the crankshaft thrust washer when worn could give mistiming at the crankshaft speed sensor.
Fuel pressure sensor - there is a fuel pressure control valve which is fitted onto the HP fuel pp.

Slow to start - Primary fuel pp or lift pp. With the starter key to first position the relay can be heard to clidk and the lift pp to run for about 10 seconds. Check fuel lines for leaks - damp wet areas. There are 3 pps in the fuel system - lift pp - secondary pp - HP pp. The secondary and HP pps are in one unit.

Vibration - engine/gearbox mountings. Timming, one injector not firing, irregular firing.

Tac tac sound - could be tappets. Oil not getting to the hydraulic tappets. Need to use flushing oil at each oil change. If flushing oil not used then small oil passagways can become clogged up.
Tac tac sound - could be broken piston rings, could be injector firing not firing, too much fuel from one injector, hot spot preignition.

Check the engine coolant sensors are good. If the sensor indicates a temperature lower than the actual engine temp' the ECU increases the fuel delivery which could give uneven running and white smoke.
Disconnect B+. Check/clean all earth connections. Disconnect one at a time all the electrical connectors spray with WD40 or similar and reconnect. Reconnect B+.

There are post about most of these subjects. There is a PDF workshop manual.
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