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| injector light stays on; truck runs fine but injector warnig light is on | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 7 2011, 05:37 PM (6,722 Views) | |
| ivecojoe | Sep 7 2011, 05:37 PM Post #1 |
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Just got a problem which these trucks seem to suffer from,starts and runs ok but injector light stays on even with ignition turned of ? it will rev up ok doesnt seem to have any trouble starting and the light will occasionally go out , but when stopped light will come back on after ignition is turned of, I am unwilling to pay £90 an hour plus vat.....sorry forgot to say it is a 50c13 ,about to change both diesel filters and remove tank and drain to make sure no water or sediment, will check diesel flow ect but as truck runs ok this seems more of an electrical/sensor fault, all help gratefully accepted.....can I get a workshop manual for this in cd format ? thanks and regards tractot Paul |
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| PhilD | Sep 11 2011, 08:04 PM Post #2 |
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My van had the light keep coming on and going into limp mode, turned out to be the crank sensor just under the oil filter. |
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| jazz4u | Sep 12 2011, 05:11 PM Post #3 |
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Hi same here went to Iveco, very helpfull people btw pls try whether your brake lights burn when using brake pedal, if not see following: my truck had a fault in the brake switch (located just above the brake pedal) such a switch costs about 20 euros in Holland after mounting new brake switch have the computer reset problem solved |
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| ivecojoe | Sep 14 2011, 04:52 PM Post #4 |
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Thanks for the replies......checked back lights they are fine, also managed to do the blink code and have been going through the faults one by one, so far I have replaced both diesel filters and renewed air filter, put on a new exhaust box to replace rotten one, I have also checked all fuses compared to hand book and found several relays appear to have been put in non functional places such as electric windows (doesnt have) so I have removed these and put them back to where they should have been like the filter heater etc. but the edc light remains permantly on ?? replaced relay for ecu that made no differance.......engine runs nicely with only a little smoke after ticking over for a while which clears on acceleration.......possible a drippy injector causing this, , the other fault I have noticed is that the speedo is not working...as it is a 5 tonner it has a tacho fitted does anyone know where the fuses are for these??? as it maybe previous owner had disabled them ? currently truck is sorn and I need to get this sorted so that it can be re plated taxed and back to work! thanks for your help so far! regards Paul latest work done........I checked the two switches that operate of the rear brake pedal, although lights were working.....great one problem found the switch to the right had become loose and so probalby not working ,remounted it as it is only a twist fit,you can now hear two relays clicking when pressing brake pedal with ignition on, the downside is now the low oil level light is being activated if I pump the brakes ??? possibly this is why previous owner had over filled oil by about 30mm!!! I have tried to clear blink code memory but cannont seem to do this any more, ecu light still on with ignition of.... any resident expert out there live down south ???
Edited by ivecojoe, Sep 17 2011, 11:14 AM.
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| ivecojoe | Sep 19 2011, 06:00 PM Post #5 |
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AN UPDATE.......bought a new switch that fits above brake pedal, checked both switches with a meter against the new one..both checked ok, however it seems like a alteration has been made to the loom connecting the switches together with a single bridgeing wire soldered in place ?? so as a test I cut this wire and truck wont start, imobiliser key code stays on for four seconds and goes of as it should but then every three seconds or so blinks ounce very quickly and so on . noting also that edc light is off and the normal whur of the tacho winding up is missing, darkness has beaten me today............so far no experts have been in touch.......dont be shy!! all help welcomed.thanks Paul |
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| Bazil-S | Sep 19 2011, 10:36 PM Post #6 |
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Hi, Brake switches. The first switch has two blue wires: 1176-1175 and the second switch has two green wires: 8150-8158. There should not be a bridge between the wires from the switches. 1176 is positive supply after ignition switch (ignition on), thru fuse 25 and 8150 is positive (ignition on), thru fuse 24. The first switch is connected normally open (released no contact), the second switch is connected normally closed (released make contact). Check if is voltage on the wires - 1176 and 8150, if not check the fuses. Green wire 8150 is important for EDC, somewhere may be interrupted and someone has drawn the power from the blue wire 1176. |
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| ivecojoe | Sep 19 2011, 10:45 PM Post #7 |
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Thanks, with regard to bridge I came to the same conclusion interesting about what you say about switches being open/closed , are they the same switch with reversed wiring for want of a better term? I have just been downloading wiring diagrams and pin no,s to enable some thorough checking. THANKYOU again for your interest and help I will post results as I get them .regards Paul, |
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| ivecojoe | Sep 20 2011, 03:48 PM Post #8 |
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Hi Well I disconnected the bridgeing wire that had been added,then replaced the ecu relay,hey presto truck starts and light gone off,great or so I thought......checked instrument panel for voltage as speedo is not working and now rev counter not working mileage display etc gone blank low water warning light on and low level oil light blinking (again) also note edc warning light is not coming on when ignition is turned on (initial lamp test) !!?? I have re checked all fuses and all ok, strangely it now takes about 3 seconds of cranking to start rather than instant..but throttle response is exc: So I seem to have swapped one lot of faults for others! again any help/advice appreciated, note rev counter was previously working. regards Paul |
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| ivecojoe | Sep 20 2011, 05:52 PM Post #9 |
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Latest.......Thought I better have another go at this before dark,where I had removed the left plug in connector to check for voltage connector looked well fitted and ok but looking at the one on the right (this is on the dashboard instrument panel) it didnt look as flush fitting.....unclipped it and pulled it out and the overcentre clamp fell apart, the pivot point being broken, removed clamp and replaced plug, now dash works again ...how ever you have to woble the left plug to get every thing to work. so experts help again please, is it the pin connectors or a fault inside? by wiggling it about I can get all warning lights on and the faulty water level and oil level lights off!! My thoughts are superglue the errant pivot point back on the broken one but not sure about the one that needs better? connection, how about electrical contact cleaner? as ever all help apppreciated.....perhaps at last I am getting somewhere! thanks and regards Paul |
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| Bazil-S | Sep 20 2011, 08:39 PM Post #10 |
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Hi, Both are possible, imperfect contact in the connector, or bed soldering. First try with a contact spray (without graphite or copper ...). You can try to stick that pin (pivot), but with care. Cluster disassembly, is a delicate job. |
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| ivecojoe | Sep 21 2011, 08:54 PM Post #11 |
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Good news !! I removed the over centre clips from the instrument cluster supply cables then sprayed the push in plug part with contact cleaner.....tapped out excess onto a cloth and then pushed the plugs in and out several times to clean the contacts, finally pushing the plugs completely home ,even without the over centre clips they are a snap fit so will not vibrate loose..and hey presto !!!!that ..EDC lamp has gone off.....so has the intermitant fault on water and oil level, great. All that leaves to fix on the electrical system is speedo/tacho not working, the tacho fault light is illuminated in the speedo, also the glow plug warning lamp is not flicking on with the other fault lamps on initial turn of the key ?? I have cheched the cable from the speedo sensor on the gearbox and that is ok up untill the point it disapears into the chassis, also checked the glowplug by taking it out and wiring it up..thats fine and so is its relay and fuse.Hmmm I think there is a control unit for this ? but I cant find it. any help gratefully accepted. regards a somewhat happier Paul |
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| Bazil-S | Sep 21 2011, 10:09 PM Post #12 |
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Hi, Preheat lamp is not automatically checked, it only lights up when preheating works. At the tachograph may be broken wires. Download: Continuity test (based on 2000-2006 model), from the workshop manual section. If you're lucky, you'll find the broken wires near the connector between the chassis and cab cable, located bottom left of the radiator, or behind the battery. |
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| ivecojoe | Sep 21 2011, 10:34 PM Post #13 |
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Thanks again, I had thought from what I read that the heat light flahed on with the others for a second or so !! from what you say looks like you just saved me some frustration looking for a non existant fault....great. will check for cable fault as you suggest appreciate your time and help. regards Paul |
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| ivecojoe | Sep 22 2011, 04:14 PM Post #14 |
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Its getting better..slowly !! found two broken wires at the front near side down by the radiator .....gave it a try now tacho works and km are adding on the speedo, but no speedo,checked the loom at the back of the cab where it goes into the chassis from the tacho/speedo sensor, cut the cover back a little and sure enough another broken wire !! once repaired speedo now works , great and thanks for all you help resident expert, Keep up the good work on this site and I hope the faults I have found are usefull to other iveco owners. thanks and regards tracor Paul |
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