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Rear Brakes
Topic Started: Jul 25 2012, 07:31 PM (13,325 Views)
JohnBF1
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I have read a few help topics regarding these Brembo rear brakes.
I was told to have mine cleared out by the MOT man :'(
But he said they were good enough for now to pass :P
Anyway i took wheels off at the back had a good look checked the handbrake cable and realized some berk had not connected one side correctly but the other side was?
Inspected the pads they looked fine?
But on closer inspection as I decided to remove everything (All Hell Broke Loose).
It took ages to get the caliper off (Typical for wind back you say). No i have done many wind back systems this was unusual but after I got my BFH movement and off with caliper the pads still needed an amount of persuasion but out they came and they were cooked that bad 1 had separated from the metal and had split in two the second half of that side was 3/4 separated. I checked the piston wind back with longnose pliers yep they moved and soon wound in checked the handbrake lever and piston out and in. then the sliders one was fine the other no movement even with a tap or ten. soaked in WD40 and lots of back and forward hitting after an hour out it came.
Wet and dry to clean it up and then the caliper side loads of grease working well put back together new pads.
got to the off side and almost identical 1 slider no movement burnt pads corrected the handbrake cable and and lubed it all.
After a lot of foul language lots of grease and copper-slip rear working brakes.
In all the posts I have read before attacking mine I saw no reference to the sliders so it might be something to look at.
Van 3rd gen Iveco Daily 29L 05 2.3d
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mfoobar
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I've had a stuck slider in the past. I got a garage to deal with it at the time, but tomorrow I'm about to check mine myself. My van failed its MOT earlier this week on quite a number of bits... top and bottom ball joints gone both sides of the front suspension and all rear leaf spring bushes gone. I've got all the parts now (ouch!) and about to set about it myself tomorrow. One other item reported on the MOT was that the braking efficiency at 25% out of balance on the front brakes. Helpfully they couldn't tell me which side was underperforming. I'm guessing might be a stuck slider so going to try and get the calipers off and have a look myself.

-Matt
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JohnBF1
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Hi Mat checked my fronts today and when I tell you the pads were BURNT I mean cremated :-/ .
Disks again fine but the pads were crumbling and come off the steel back completely.
My best guess is and I have talked to some people in the know and they agree, because the back sliders were not letting the outer pad do a lot the fronts have been over worked hence the heat from doing all the work has been too much. I will take some photos of the pads just for reference if any one is interested before I chuck them looking at the state of them I am lucky to still be here :'( It was only the pad carrier that has stopped them collapsing completely.

john
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AlBags
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This one here does not get used very often (horse box)
Rear brakes tend to seize/stick on and have to rock vehicle on clutch to free off, after parked with brake on for a week or so.

Is it usually caliper sliders or caliper pistons that are problem?
Or does the HB linkage seize on (I think maybe not)
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JohnBF1
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I have found over the years that people do not grease the sliders with high temperature grease they seem not to realize just how hot brake calipers pads and components get I always use good high temperature grease and or Copaslip anti-seize compound. It is a very high temperature (up to 1100°C).
My problems have been that my van has been looked after ^o) so they say by a garage :(
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AlBags
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Cheers! Will find out tomorrow.
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JohnBF1
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Let us know how you get on
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AlBags
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Hi

OK. Pulled off rear wheels (twin axle) and calipers (Bermbo 2-pot floating on pins)
One pin on each caliper seized in solid. Knocked out and freed all up. Pads fit 'loose' so no seizing up there. No windback on these pistons.
Handbrake mechanism is a nightmare to do anything about (was holding on until lever 'worked') The rear hubs and shaft have to be withdrawn to get off disc! Big heavy job. What size is that shaft nut inside the hub cover anyway??

Removed bungs injected penetrant and oiled linkages I could get to. Took down road afterwards and burned off rust/deposits.
Replaced (pumped through) new fluid to each caliper) Working fine now with better bite.
Pedal great feel on road now (spongy before)

Front calipers suffer too in same way.
I use heatproof paste on all slider pins and pad contacts to calipers.
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JohnBF1
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Nice work the way to adjust the hand brake so I was informed when working on a Renault Megan was to disconnect the cable from the levers then pump the pedal over and over then reconnect the cable and adjust the cable its self to suit.
I cant help with the hub nut as my friend just gave me his big box and said "find it your bleedin self"! :(
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braindog
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Hi,
Having had no handbrake for a while, I decided to today to attend to it ... got the wheel off to find the lever on the caliper was in the on position, even with the handbrake off, (the return spring seems ok), so I knocked the lever back to the off position and then it braked ... so with regard to John and Al's posting, i'm guessing I've got burnt pads and everything seized up like them ..
having not done these vans before, can anybody offer some advice on the how to's and pitfalls ..
I'm having difficulty getting the piston back enough to get the caliper off .. what's the technique ?
also, from the previous discussion, what are the sliders, where and what do they look like ?
excuse my ignorance, I'm a piano player not a mechanic ... but as the great american hippy mechanic John Muir once said " come to kindly terms with your ass, for it bears you " .. and so we must ...
Iveco 2004 2.3 hpi
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