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EDC light; wont start
Topic Started: Sep 19 2012, 04:39 PM (10,332 Views)
rossifan
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Hi everyone, just joined the site and have a problem with my van refusing to start.
I took the battery off this morning to start another machine, put it back on again ,drove home, turned it off and now it wont start. The engine turns over and the red edc light is os on. Ive checked the edc fuses and they seem ok. Could it be the fuel filter I wonder, its never given trouble before in 130.000 miles. All the lights etc are working.
Any advice greatly appreciated as its my only transport.
Sorry forgot to add the van is a daily 29L10 2.3 20O5 model
Edited by rossifan, Sep 19 2012, 04:56 PM.
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Bazil-S
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Hi,

Removing the battery may be just a coincidence, or maybe not. Check operation of electric fuel pump, ignition on, check if maybe you have taken out a connector or something, unintentionally of course.
If you did a short circuit when you fit back the battery, then probably, you damaged something.
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rossifan
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Thanks for that.
Yes knowing my luck lately it will be a coincidence sending me off in the wrong direction.
Ive had the van from new and this is the first time its let me down so I dont know where everything is, ie fuel pump etc.
It started up ok when I refitted the battery and I drove it about 20 miles back home then when I went to start it it just kept turning over with the red injector light on like it was out of fuel.
Im totaly lost at the moment but will have another go tomorrow. Cant trust garages anymore after a bad expierience and cant get it there anyhow.
Thanks again.
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vantastic
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I had to have the battery connector block replaced, because they said it was corroded. I couldn't see how. But I had the same syptoms. Pull off the inlet on the fuel filter whilst somebody flicks the ignition on, you should have fuel
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rossifan
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Ok Van thanks I will try that in the morning.
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rossifan
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rossifan
Sep 19 2012, 09:11 PM
Ok Van thanks I will try that in the morning.
Been at it again today. Pulled off the fuel line at the main filter incoming from the tank and outgoing to the engine. Fuel spurting out with ignition on. Cracked a injector and fuel coming out with ignition on so fuel ok. Took off battery again and cleaned the terminals. Checked all fuses and all ok. EDC relay is clicking after turning engine over so relay probably ok. Red injector light still flashes and engine wont start. Tried some Easy Start down the intake but only got a slight splutter on turnover. I cant get it to a garage for a diagnostic plug in so Im still at a loose end. Should I possibly replace the crank sensor, I see theres also a camshaft sensor or could I have damaged the ECU just by removing the battery and reffiting it??
I guess the injectors are not opening so it must be electrical.
Any advice appreciated.
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rossifan
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rossifan
Sep 20 2012, 06:39 PM
rossifan
Sep 19 2012, 09:11 PM
Ok Van thanks I will try that in the morning.
Been at it again today. Pulled off the fuel line at the main filter incoming from the tank and outgoing to the engine. Fuel spurting out with ignition on. Cracked a injector and fuel coming out with ignition on so fuel ok. Took off battery again and cleaned the terminals. Checked all fuses and all ok. EDC relay is clicking after turning engine over so relay probably ok. Red injector light still flashes and engine wont start. Tried some Easy Start down the intake but only got a slight splutter on turnover. I cant get it to a garage for a diagnostic plug in so Im still at a loose end. Should I possibly replace the crank sensor, I see theres also a camshaft sensor or could I have damaged the ECU just by removing the battery and reffiting it??
I guess the injectors are not opening so it must be electrical.
Any advice appreciated.
Still no luck. Been at it 4 days now, tried a tow start and just been out to get a crankshaft sensor, fitted that, charged the battery up overnight and it still wont start :'( Run out of ideas now, can anyone help plaese?
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woodymk1
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hi there this might be a shot in the dark but i had the red injector light do this to me my key snapped in the door anyway i could'nt get a new 1 so bought some blanks and cut my own with a file tryed the key fine but would not start red injector light on so i taped the head of my broken key to new 1 and tryed again turning on till dash lights came on let it run its checks all lights went out and it started been ok since then other day old key head had moved to far away from ignition barrel and keycode light came on while driving retaped key and fine again :D :D just a thought try removing battery again but leave key in ignition then reconnect this could recode everything just guessing but thats what i'd do if everything else fails don't know if this will help but it may be worth tryin :D :D
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rossifan
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Hi thanks for that I will try that when I dry out from todays rain. I jumped it off a Shogun today and just held it on the key eventually it started but wont restart on its own although plenty of turnover in the battery. The red injector light is still flashing when it fails to start but not when its running. Ive noticed the heater light doesnt come on with the dash cluster so Ive checked the fuses again and cant see anything amiss. I wonder if thats the problem!wont know without a diagnostic done it I guess.
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Snopeak
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I would also be interested to see any suggestions on this one. Mine can be a bit sluggish to start sometimes and when it is turning over, the injector light flashes.
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JohnBF1
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rossifan
Sep 23 2012, 03:54 PM
Hi thanks for that I will try that when I dry out from todays rain. I jumped it off a Shogun today and just held it on the key eventually it started but wont restart on its own although plenty of turnover in the battery. The red injector light is still flashing when it fails to start but not when its running. Ive noticed the heater light doesnt come on with the dash cluster so Ive checked the fuses again and cant see anything amiss. I wonder if thats the problem!wont know without a diagnostic done it I guess.
Since you have had the van from new have you tried the spare key as flashing injector light has a list of codes one of the main being it isnt getting the key code for the immobiliser.
woodymk1: has made a very good point as well I would defiantly give that a try.
One other thing is check near to the battery terminals as i had a battery problem so got another but pulled a wire out of a crimp when connecting the new battery.
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rossifan
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JohnBF1
Sep 24 2012, 10:54 PM
rossifan
Sep 23 2012, 03:54 PM
Hi thanks for that I will try that when I dry out from todays rain. I jumped it off a Shogun today and just held it on the key eventually it started but wont restart on its own although plenty of turnover in the battery. The red injector light is still flashing when it fails to start but not when its running. Ive noticed the heater light doesnt come on with the dash cluster so Ive checked the fuses again and cant see anything amiss. I wonder if thats the problem!wont know without a diagnostic done it I guess.
Since you have had the van from new have you tried the spare key as flashing injector light has a list of codes one of the main being it isnt getting the key code for the immobiliser.
woodymk1: has made a very good point as well I would defiantly give that a try.
One other thing is check near to the battery terminals as i had a battery problem so got another but pulled a wire out of a crimp when connecting the new battery.
Yes have tried the new unused key . The old one is so worn it falls out of the ignition whilst driving along. The new key doesnt make any differance, still just turning over but not starting. Anyway had it recovered yesterday and taken to main dealer to put on diagnostics. They reckon I need a new ecu as its showing an internal fault. With discount that will be £1,220.00 sir !!!!!!! I cant take that so Im having it towed out of there tomorrow. 2nd bad expieriance now from a main dealer but I guess they dont know how to repair the unit just to fit a new one and recode it. Thats the bit that infuriates me, the charge for recoding it.
Will update you all as the saga thickens.
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tudorz
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presure regulator?
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tomschute
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any news?

I'm in a similar situation with my 35c13 '04

Been jumping my other van off it daily, the terminals on the iveco have been loose for some time as the wrong bat was in it when I bought her, sometimes they come loose and the battery flattens while driving.

This morning I tried jumping the iveco off my car but it just turns over - no firing.

I'm such an idiot to have been treating it so bad... guessing I've popped the ECU or summit :(
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cieranc
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OK, I've got no experience with the 2.3 engines, we run 2.5TDs, 2.8's and 3.0's.

With the 2.8's there's a known problem with the crank bearings wearing on one side, there's no thrust washer installed. The result is the crank wears its way thhrough the block and can move, the flywheel moves away from the crank sensor. Why is this relevent?

Well, the symptoms of the crank sensor not picking up are similar to yours.
Spin the engine over and it doesn't fire up, EDC light flashing.
If you crank it for 30 seconds +, it will eventually pick up off the cam sensor.
BUT......a quick spray of ether down the intake will make the engine spin fast enough for it to pick up a good injector signal from the cam sensor alone.

How to check - Crawl underneath the bellhousing/gearbox with a decent lever bar. Take the inspection cover off the bellhousing to get in at the flywheel, try and lever the flywheel forwards and backwards.

Not saying this is your problem, but the symptoms sound similar. Worth checking.
Also, there's 4 times I can think of when the dealers have condemned the ECU. In all 4 cases, a new ECU never cured the fault. Caveat Emptor.
My advice would be, if the dealer says it needs a new ECU, get them to fit it. That way if it doesn't cure the fault, it's their problem.
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