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35s11; Cambelt change
Topic Started: Oct 5 2012, 03:30 PM (2,715 Views)
Jet
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Hi looking for any info that would help with cam belt change on a 2002 2.8 35s11 I have the engine on the bench at the moment and have bought belt from iveco should I change anything else at the same time ie tensioner ect I am going to fit the engine in my 2002 35c11 will I have to change the ecu at the same time any information or advice would be greatly appreciated thanks
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Bazil-S
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Hi,

To the timing belt change, you should replace the tightening rollers, also you should replace the o-rings from pipe between the water pump and thermostat.
Screw on the crankshaft pulley is very strong tight, you're gonna struggle to unscrew. Gears marks are: on the camshaft is up, must be aligned with mark on the tappet cover (12 o'clock) and on the crankshaft mark is facing downward (6 o'clock).
EDC must be replaced together with Immobilizer ECU and the ignition key, but I do not see why you want to replace your EDC, the engines should be identical to 35C11 and 35S11
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Jet
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Hi thanks for info an your time I don't want to change ecu I just wasn't sure if I had to what is the best way to remove large nut on bottom pulley and when I lock fuel pump do I need the iveco tool thanks again
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Bazil-S
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If the engine is controlled by the ECU, means that engine is common rail, to this type of engine, you don't need to align the pump gear.
The easiest is to untightening the nut with a pneumatic tool, you also can block the flywheel somehow and then try with extended lever on the wrench or something.
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Jet
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Hi bazil-s thanks again is my engine a common rail how do I tell . this Is my first iveco and I am sorry for asking about every detail I just don't want mess it up thanks again
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Bazil-S
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On the front grille is the manufacturer label, there is printed the engine type.
8140.43C is classic diesel.
8140.43B is common rail diesel
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ivecojoe
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If you have got 3quarter drive socket to fit crank locknut easiest way to undo is fit t bar lodge it against chassis rail (make sure you have it on the correct side for undoing or it will flail around breaking bits!) and then just flick starter for briefest moment..hey presto nut undone!
make sure the socket is on square and true and that you are not pinching any cables or pipes with the t bar,I have done this many times now with no problems,remember after fitting new belt turn engine over several times to let belt settle using socket on crank, I have found when you do this that it goes loose in one place(slightly slack) undo tension adjuster again and let it take up slack,tighten lock nuts, turn again several times and check again.
hope this helps, first time is a bit daunting but its an ok job to do, as Bazil said do replace the rollers at the same time.
Paul
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Jet
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Hi Paul thanks for the info my engine is out of the pickup and sitting on the bench but I will try your way of turning crank bolt I have just been informed by basil that as my engine code is.
814043b this makes it a common rail so I do not have to set pump gear thanks again ps will let you know how it works out
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