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| Error code 148; Go to limp when in alarm | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 24 2012, 06:06 AM (3,839 Views) | |
| rostrup | Nov 24 2012, 06:06 AM Post #1 |
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My mobil home Niesmann & Bishoff 2007 with Iveco 3l. 177 hk engine give me problems (Could be all the rain here in Norway ) When driving sudden the 148 code engine failure light up in the display and I have to stop the car shut down and start again This happen from time to time and the mecanic say after a diagnostic check that I should replace the turbo (It is at high cost). last weekend it happened one time on a 1000km trip , so I did not worry to much , but yesterday it started after 100km to give alarm and limp every 2-5 km , so I had to turn around and try to drive back home . Suddenly after a while it was ok and the turbo worked fine all the 120 km back home . The weather was bad so my thought was that the moisture could be a reason??. The workshop that did the diagnostic check , say that this alarm is somehow related to turbo, they did not find any other source for this failure , and recommend me to replace turbo. I think I will do that even if ,when no alarm, the engine feels good. Does someone had this problem and solved it for ever ? Rune |
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| Bazil-S | Nov 25 2012, 01:45 AM Post #2 |
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Hi, Error code 148 has been discussed in another topic that has the same name, see the link: http://ivecoforums.com/topic/8793291/1/#new In the future try to use search button
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| rostrup | Nov 25 2012, 08:46 AM Post #3 |
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Thanks for the info. I will be back with the results from my car when fixed. Rune |
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| cieranc | Nov 26 2012, 12:37 AM Post #4 |
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OK, we run a few 2007+ Dailys and have seen this problem before. When this fault comes up on our Texa machine the usual cause is the EGR valve. First, check the vacuum valve for the EGR system, it's one of two vacuum valves bolted to a plate down the drivers side (in the UK) chassis, below the air filter housing. The EGR valve has a white top. The other vacuum valve controls the turbo wastegate actuator and has a black top. These are known to play up. Make sure the pipework to and fro the valve is OK. If possible, swap the valve with a known good valve (got a mate with a similar van ???). Next step if the vac valve doesn't cure it: remove the EGR valve and clean it out. I chuck the valve assembley into a bucket of petrol for a day to soften the carbon up, then it cleans out easily. No big drama if you don't want to do this, just scrape all the carbon out and make sure the valve itself can be properly seated. Refit the EGR valve and give the van a test flight! But...... my money's on the vacuum solenoid. Usually when the EGR valve itself is stuck, the van runs rough at idle. Now I don't know about the EGR vac solenoid but, the Turbo vac solenoid is the same as fitted to most VW/Audi/Skoda/Seat diesel cars. It's a Pierburg valve. Before you lash out on £80 for one from the dealers, try one from a scrapyard. We've got 2 of our Dailys running on second hand valves from cars, all run fine (some give a slight flatspot at exactly 3000 rpm). Try one from a breakers before you splash out. Edited by cieranc, Nov 26 2012, 12:38 AM.
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| rostrup | Nov 28 2012, 07:58 PM Post #5 |
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I had my motorhome to the Iveco workshop, and they did a diagnostic check before they replaced the turbo , and one check with new turbo . There was a huge difference between these two test. I had the car for a test drive 140 km today ,and everything seems to work fine. The mechanic said that you will have often failure with EGR valve and EGR system if you have a car that normally drive in the city and doing short trips . With my motorhome I normally do long trips and then hopefully not building carbon in the system. The turbo was a pricy job , but if this is the source for the failure I had o go for it. Regards Rune |
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| ivecoboy | Dec 11 2012, 10:05 PM Post #6 |
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it was ur turbo waste gate or the actuator on the waste gate that would have been faulty sticking waste gate sounds right complete turbo is dear to fix but fixd ur problem |
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| mkampstra | Dec 27 2012, 12:25 PM Post #7 |
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170 hp is not waste gate. It's underpressure regulated by ECU. |
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| cieranc | Dec 27 2012, 04:24 PM Post #8 |
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Had similar, dealers condemned the turbo, said new turbo required. Found the diaphragm in the actuator had split. New actuator from a turbo specialist was considerably less than a new turbo (£50 from Turbo Dynamics). We've only had one turbo that was actually the turbo at fault. Inside the casing had rusted up/corroded, so the vanes were sticking. Several turbo specialists we've dealt with for years said the same thing: not cost effective rebuilding them. They require the turbo casing, the vanes and vane control ring replacing. By the time you add the cost of the bits up, and the labour, it works out cheaper buying a new turbo. Also, we've found that the rose joints on the actuators aren't very good. They're not actually a rose joint as they should be, rather just a bit of flat steel that fits over the arm for the vanes. These tend to wear, the hole in the steel plate goes oblong and a loss of performance is noticed. This is because due to the wear, the actuator can move a few mil without actually moving the turbo vanes, so the actuator is working ok but not actually affecting the turbo operation. For a quick fix, we shim between the actuator and the bracket (a bit of hacksaw blade is ideal), to take up the slack. Permanent fix is to replace the actuator pivot (they just screw onto the end of the actuator pushrod) with a proper rose-jointed end, available from turbo specialists. Hope this helps. Edited by cieranc, Dec 27 2012, 04:37 PM.
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