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No Central locking anymore.....
Topic Started: Jun 6 2013, 08:38 PM (9,698 Views)
Babooser
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Hi Guys, I took my battery off the other day to charge it up to the max & when i put it back on i didnt do up the negative terminal tightly enough... so a couple of times i went to start the engine &..... Nothing (no suprise).
But since then everything has been nicely tightened & is all good again.... "Except" I dont have central locking ability anymore!
I know there is nothing wrong with the key-fob...of that i am sure!
My gut tells me that i have blown a fuse somewhere.... but if this is right, where the hell is it?
I have checked all the fuses in front of the passenger seats & they all appear to be fine!...
So my guess is that there may be another area of fuses with the one for central locking on it waiting for me to change?
I read some old posts on this topic, but they mostly reffered to "Key-Fob" problems... however i did try the "Press the button mid crank" trick & that had no effect...
Any ideas or theorys appreciated
cheers Jim
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Babooser
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Hi does anyone know the answer to this please?
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Kenbarcon
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Try this........put key in ignition and turn on, do not start it. Then press central locking button in and hold for 10 seconds. Worked for me when fitting new battery.
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Babooser
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Hi, I just tried that & Unfortunately nothing... I also tried doing that with every incriment of the ignition & that did not work either... I then re-checked my fuse box in front of the passenger seat & they all appear to be good... so i am still at a loss atm :(
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Babooser
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If no-one can answer this question, maybe i should ask it like this...
What controls the central locking?
What would/could be a cause of the central locking & i guess the imobiliser to stop working & how can i fix it?
Is there another fusebox somewhere other than the one in front of the passenger seat?
Will it work if i eat avocados for a week & then try it?
Am i looking for the right thing (Im guessing a blown fuse)? or is it a Relay or what?
Should i be pressing the key fob from the offside rear of the vehicle whilst looking away & whistling dixie?
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Bazil-S
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Hi,

You should know by now that if you give us as many details as possible, you are more likely to get an answer. For example: the remote central locking does not work but it works from the door lock mechanism, or I can just lock and unlock the back door from dashboard button.
Is the central locking freestanding or is built-in the anti-theft system? Have you checked the fuses 48 and 49 (with a multimeter)? It turns on, or flashes the LED from the ceiling lamp? Have you checked the remote key fob near to a turned radio, or tv, to check if emits? Are the switches from the doors in good condition?

It's good to know, in fact it is written in the user manual... the remote control battery will be replaced in max 3 minutes! Particular attention will be paid to the polarity of the battery!
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markthelark
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Central Locking - I dream of it for my MK2 ! But I do have a radio that works ! Not bad for a truck with 1,093,000 .

Just a thought , have a number of times been certain that Z was correct/ok , only to spend loads of time to realise it wasn't. Had a miss-fire on number one plug on a car once, changed the plug and still miss-fired. Spent a lot of time testing/checking/replacing things , only to find out the new plug was also faulty !!!! I assume that when you say the fob is ok , you put a new battery in it. Try another one first , could just be chance that you removed the engine battery at the same time the fob one went U.S.
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Babooser
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Basil S.... You are the expert... I am just a "Joe bloggs" with a van.
I have tried to be as descriptive with my Opening post... but as i dont know all the technical names for things i have to do my best with laymans terms...
I have given the symptoms... in the op...
At the moment i use the key to open the drivers door to get in & out... when i turn the key in the drivers side door it does not open the passenger door lock... & when i turn the key in the passenger door it wont open/unlock the drivers door...
I dont understand exactly what has happend, as everything else is working fine...
I will change the battery in the key-fob asap... I didnt do that yet as when i press the buttons on it i get the red led light lighting up like they used to when the central locking worked before...
I dont know if the system is freestanding or built in as it was already there when i bought the van...
I have never noticed any flashing from the ceiling lamp...
all i know is that because i did not do the negative battery terminal up tightly enough, it did not like it obviously... & now refuses to work.
It was working fine before that though... (Hence why i was thinking it was a fuse)...
I will check the fuses 48 & 49 with a multimeter asap...
Also i may just replace every single fuse in the fusebox with new ones (i bought loads recently)....
& ill post my results.
If however anyone else knows anything else please post it & ill try that too... :)
cheers Jim
Edited by Babooser, Jun 12 2013, 10:08 PM.
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yiannism
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Hello,

I got the same exactly problem as said from babooser...
But mine happened when my fob battery went down and tried to change it.
I did not know about the 3min gap..so i put a new battery in key fob after 10min..after that...no central locking anymore..

tried all tips that i found here and on the net...still no luck.

I think the only solution is to go to main dealer for reprograming the keyfob ???

Engine starts ok, so no immob.. issue here.

Any other solutions??

John
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Bazil-S
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Replace the fuses, is faster, and keep us posted.
Try to unlock all the doors, but keep all doors closed, then disconnect the negative terminal for 15 minutes, reconnects back and try to lock with the key from the driver's door, if the system is running, continue with the procedure of Rolling Code of the remote control (switch the ignition then press the button...)
There may be a reset button located on the back of the central locking ECU, or a blink code LED, I am not sure... This should be checked...
Edited by Bazil-S, Jun 12 2013, 10:48 PM.
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Bazil-S
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Hi,

Daily has two types of central locking: CDL = only central locking and "CDLA" which is central locking + alarm.
Only the central locking with alarm has the opportunity to withdraw blink code, but we can try to do a trick, in order to withdraw the codes from ECU without alarm.
It requires a LED or analog multimeter and some jumper wire.
ECU has two connectors, the first has 12 pins and the second has 28 pins. In the 28-pin connector is the positive output for blink code LED at pin 14.

The LED will be connected between pin 14 of 28- pins connector and pin 11 of 12 pins connector, on terminal 11 is earth and the wire is brown with code 0000.
On the 28-pin connector at terminal 21 is the wire for diagnosis (white color with 2292 code), it will must be bridged to earth for two seconds to withdraw the first blink code. For the following error codes will be repeated the operation with bridge the diagnostic wire to earth.
The ECU is located somewhere between the passenger side and central console.
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Babooser
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Wow... Basil, your knowledge of all this is truely impressive to say the least...
I changed the fuses for new ones & everything appears the same & i bought a new battery for the keyfob but i got the wrong one by mistake (it looked identical to the old one) old one is 12v & the new one is 1.5v... so ill take that one back & get the correct one asap...
When you mention "Blink Code" are you describing the yellow warning light (the shape of a key) on the far right of the warning lights? if there was a problem with that, would it stay on or blink continiously after ignition & when you drive around? as mine does neither... it dissapears along with the others after a few seconds...
Also i forgot to mention that when i turn off the ignition it makes a sound "Bip Bop Bip" "Bip Bop Bip" "Bip Bop Bip"... does that tell you anything? as to weather it has the imobiliser with alarm or without, im not sure as ive never tried to break in to find out...lol
But im guessing probably no alarm...
Cheers Jim
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