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Spares kit for new 4x4
Topic Started: Sep 20 2013, 11:44 PM (6,853 Views)
Goingbush
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Have just taken delivery of my new Dual Cab 55s17W 4x4 and have fitted Towbar , and HID kit (Bullbar next week) .
Have temporary mounted a used tray from a GU patrol to get some weight over the rear wheels to make it 'drivable'

On Wednesday we have 1800 km drive to Melbourne where we will spend a couple of weeks building the module for the back.

Whilst there I will also put together a spares kit for the truck.

Alternator & A/C drive belts ,
Fuel filters (it has a spin on with water trap and also a small inline filter behind the lift pump)
Air filter / cabin filter
Oil filter
Brake pads / rear shoes

To save me reinventing the wheel, does anyone have the part numbers on hand for these

thanks ..Don
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mark hadley
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Strange list ! I can see the drive belts as emergency spares, but the other items are regular service items. Sure you will need them, but not in the bush - or am I missing something?
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Goingbush
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mark hadley
Sep 21 2013, 09:41 AM
Strange list ! I can see the drive belts as emergency spares, but the other items are regular service items. Sure you will need them, but not in the bush - or am I missing something?
Well, As I spend most of the time travelling on dusty corrugated roads I'm used to changing air filters every 10,000 k or so.
and its not all that uncommon to cop a bad dose of fuel in Outback Australia, esp where the bulk fuel drums are above ground and reach 45c during the day and as low as 5c at night , condensation in the tanks & rust become a problem, tend to want change fuel filters well before the scheduled service because of that. Oil filter, well I just think 40,000 k in the iveco book, or 20,000k between "severe conditions" services is just plain too long, and I'm not going to be running off to a capital city to find an Iveco dealer in the hope they have a set of spares just waiting for me. These trucks are new in the country and I'd just like to have a box of spares just incase, dead cert that country truck dealers would never have laid eyes on one.

and the brake consumables, thats just incase I get caught on the hop, no idea how many km I'm likely to get out of pads, not wanting to divert course to an Iveco service center just for a brake change, especially when the nearest dealer might be 2000km away !!
Edited by Goingbush, Sep 21 2013, 01:11 PM.
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MrDaily
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Goingbush
Sep 21 2013, 12:58 PM
mark hadley
Sep 21 2013, 09:41 AM
Strange list ! I can see the drive belts as emergency spares, but the other items are regular service items. Sure you will need them, but not in the bush - or am I missing something?
Well, As I spend most of the time travelling on dusty corrugated roads I'm used to changing air filters every 10,000 k or so.
and its not all that uncommon to cop a bad dose of fuel in Outback Australia, esp where the bulk fuel drums are above ground and reach 45c during the day and as low as 5c at night , condensation in the tanks & rust become a problem, tend to want change fuel filters well before the scheduled service because of that. Oil filter, well I just think 40,000 k in the iveco book, or 20,000k between "severe conditions" services is just plain too long, and I'm not going to be running off to a capital city to find an Iveco dealer in the hope they have a set of spares just waiting for me. These trucks are new in the country and I'd just like to have a box of spares just incase, dead cert that country truck dealers would never have laid eyes on one.

and the brake consumables, thats just incase I get caught on the hop, no idea how many km I'm likely to get out of pads, not wanting to divert course to an Iveco service center just for a brake change, especially when the nearest dealer might be 2000km away !!
Remember the engine in the Daily 4x4 is an EEV unit with DPF
Oil/filter changes should be done by a dealer so the counter is set correctly. This is for the DPF which is CRT (continually regenerating trap)
Service intervals are stated in the use&maintenance manual provided with the vehicle
40000km or 12 months(mainly road and trail)OR 20000km or 6 months(severe heavy application)
Fuel quality is important for these EEV engines. Suggest adding a Raycor filter/water trap into the system
Changing brake pads can be done although you will need the EASy diagnostics tool to properly bleed the system due to the ABS
Log onto IVECO.com.au and check the network of dealers. Most of these will also have a sub dealer network, expanding the coverage. Remember the Daily is sold by truck people, not car people. Make sure you keep the assistance non-stop 24/7 phone number handy; this should be on a sticker on your windscreen
Cheers
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Goingbush
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Well I for one am not "fine" with the first oil change being at 20,000 or 40,000 as the case may be.

Any amount of swarf that comes out on a new engine , gearbox , diff , t/case in the first few thousand klm is going to make the vehicle last a longer over its lifetime. May be fine for accountants - but not me.

The fact that the computer does not know the oil has been changes is besides the point, I dont want to keep the swarf in the engine for 20,000 km

Also a water trap /Raycor or Dayco I will be fitting. The "pre" filter on my truck is totally inadequate for Australian conditions, infact my lawnmower uses the same filter. That tiny in-line filter which is before the lift pump going to be replaced with one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIESEL-FUEL-WATER-TRAP-SEPARATOR-ASSY-CAV-296-FUEL-FILTER-ASSY-SUIT-GARAGE-/271031607537?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item3f1abe20f1&_uhb=1 . Even an inline Opel Corsa / Holden Barina filter would be better, its about twice the size. (Im carrying one as a spare just incase)

Posted Image

they are great trucks but they do have some issues that need to be addressed (ask me about the diff breathers)

Edited by Goingbush, Sep 23 2013, 11:20 AM.
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marcustuck
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Hi GoingBush,

There is an IVECO option for a proper pre-filter with heater, I have not seen that little one before, here is a photo of this optional pre-filter on mine which is mounted just behind the front wheel.

When the engine regenerates the DPF it logs the amount of extra diesel that will have found its way into the oil (which degrades the oil) when this amount gets too high it indicates the oil must be changed. If you change the filter and oil early without telling the ECU you will not harm anything, but you will be told to change the new oil earlier then necessary. However, this is not an issue as that is what you are planning to do anyway.

Hope this helps.
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MrDaily
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Goingbush
Sep 23 2013, 11:17 AM
Well I for one am not "fine" with the first oil change being at 20,000 or 40,000 as the case may be.

Any amount of swarf that comes out on a new engine , gearbox , diff , t/case in the first few thousand klm is going to make the vehicle last a longer over its lifetime. May be fine for accountants - but not me.

The fact that the computer does not know the oil has been changes is besides the point, I dont want to keep the swarf in the engine for 20,000 km

Also a water trap /Raycor or Dayco I will be fitting. The "pre" filter on my truck is totally inadequate for Australian conditions, infact my lawnmower uses the same filter. That tiny in-line filter which is before the lift pump going to be replaced with one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIESEL-FUEL-WATER-TRAP-SEPARATOR-ASSY-CAV-296-FUEL-FILTER-ASSY-SUIT-GARAGE-/271031607537?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item3f1abe20f1&_uhb=1 . Even an inline Opel Corsa / Holden Barina filter would be better, its about twice the size. (Im carrying one as a spare just incase)

Posted Image

they are great trucks but they do have some issues that need to be addressed (ask me about the diff breathers)

The main fuel filter/water trap is under the bonnet, on LHS. If condensation is detected, the truck will inform you to this with dedicated warning dash light.
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marcustuck
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Spare parts lists are always a good topic to start a lot of chat. I am not trying to do that here; I am just trying to provide a list that may be useful for others to start their research!
I have been researching what to take with me on a long journey (several years) in remote areas (no IVECO dealers in the countries) where I will need to be as self-sufficient as possible.

There is always the debate of using old easy to maintain vehicles v new highly technical vehicles, I have chosen the latter for the following reasons:-

1.Wanted a new vehicle for reliability.

2.Modern Bosch electronics are now exceptionally reliable even if the wires joining the boxes are not quite as good, the wires can be fixed in the field.

3.Big saving in fuel consumption, this will probably be my biggest living cost!

4.Modern features and comfort for a life on the road/track/sand/mud/swap etc ;-)

I have a background in electronics, well avionics, and so am not put off by the prospect of using my Eltrec EASY or PicoScope to trace faults, in fact I am sad enough to quite like it. From monitoring this forum over the last few years it would appear there are few major mechanical issues and most of the problems relate to electrical wires/connector issues and the vacuum system. This has driven me to make the following decisions on spares:-

1.Major mechanical failure should be a low probability and so any issue will have to be dealt with when it happens, you just cannot carry spares for everything.

2.Minor mechanical issues:-
a.Oil leaks can be patched up or more oil poured in until the spares are shipped to me.
b.Temporary mechanical fixes can be improvised in the field to get me moving until I can fix it properly.

3.Electrical issues, very unlikely to find trained technicians in the countries I will be visiting so I must be self-sufficient. The various sensors are small and so easy to carry but test equipment is required.

4.Tyres, I have the standard split rims with tubeless XZL tyres fitted. I have one complete spare wheel plus an additional spare tyre. I will also be carrying two spare inner tubes, the wheels and tyres can be used with or without inner tubes. I also have a set of Tyrepliers (a great tool from Australia for breaking the bead) and lots of patches, plugs and glues to carry out full tyre repairs.

5.Fuel quality will be an issue but I have the extra pre-pre-fuel filter and am taking one spare injector to help with fault diagnosis if required (they are not cheap). I also have an option if the DPF cannot be regenerated.

So given all of the above here is the list of main spares (and specialist tools) I will be taking for my 55S17W. I have not included all the usual sticky tape, hose repair kit, pipe clips, string, threaded rods, nuts, washers etc in this list:-

Specialist tools:-
Part NumberDescriptionDetailQty.
99360186Auxiliary belt fitting tool 1
99342156Fuel injector puller 1
99358026Alternator free wheel spanner 1
99352115Wrench for injector pipes 1
99360076Filter spanner 1
99370205Clutch centring pin 1
99355172Wrench for wheel hub bearing adjustment ring nut 1
99370498Tool for installing wheel hub bearing 1
99341013Reaction block 1

Spare parts:-
Part NumberDescriptionDetailQty.
5801259656ELECTROVALVETurbo waste gate vacuum valve1
504385557ELECTRICAL INJECTIONFuel injector1
504382373SENSORFuel rail pressure sensor1
504346675TYRE INFLATING VALVE (ACCESSORY)Tyre valve1
504341691SEAL GASKETFuel injector seal1
500054702FUEL FILTERPre-filter4
2992662FUEL FILTERPre-Pre-filter!4
504307953SENSORIntake manifold1
504135503SENSORLambda1
504131270GASKETCat rear and silencer front2
504131269GASKETCat front1
504129943ELECTRON.TRANSMITTCrankshaft1
504092335V-BELTAlternator2
504087247V-BELTAC Compressor2
504061450RELAY20A1
504057813ALTERNATOR140 Amp1
504049024RELAY10/20A1
504048261SENSORCamshaft position1
500382599TEMPERATURE TRANSMITTERIn Thermostat housing1
500351992HEATER PLUGGlow Plug1
500341925RELAY50A for EDC1
5801287850STARTER MOTORStarter motor1
69503673PUMPFuel pump - electric1
69502946SENSOREGT Mid CAT1
69502363SENSOREGT Front CAT1
69501120RELAY1
42559960GASKETTransfer sump plug1
42560737FUSE500A brown2
18192490FUSE150A orange2
42556403FUSE70A brown2
42556402FUSE50A red2
18096190FUSE60A-BLU2
18095990FUSE40A2
16715990FUSE25A2
16715890FUSE20A2
16713890FUSE15A2
16713790FUSE10A2
16711990FUSE7.5A2
16711890FUSE5A2
16710090FUSE3A2
16627190FUSE30A2
11055990FUSE20A2
16508460WASHERSump plug2
2996465BRAKE PAD SET Front pads1
2995655OIL FILTER CARTRIDGEOil4
1903669AIR FILTER CARTRIDGEAir filter4
504008619SENSORWater pressure1
3802821Pollen filter 1


Edited by marcustuck, Oct 1 2013, 08:23 AM.
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Bazil-S
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Hi,

This is a tip that you can use when you are far away from a recovery truck and the engine will not start because of too low fuel pressure.
Usually there are two mechanical common defects of the injectors: leak to return, or leak in the cylinder. An injector that flows, can drop dramatically the fuel pressure, enough to prevent the engine to start.
For testing it can be can use a special plug (stopper) for injector pipe. By blocking the injector pipe, you will eliminate that injector from fuel flow and the fuel pressure will not drop below the minimum threshold.
Normally you have the diagnostic tools, so you can identify a faulty injector, but a blind fitting that can occlude the pipe will confirm the diagnosis. This blind plug is used instead of the burettes kit.
With an injector removed from the circuit, the engine can start and operate in three cylinders and can even succeed to crawl to civilization.
If you block an injector hydraulically and run the engine in three cylinders, also you will need to disconnect the electrical connector.

To summarize, this plug is useful for testing the injectors, it is also good if you do not have a spare injector, or fails two injectors at once.

P.S.

You can build this plug from an injector inlet fitting, recovered from a faulty injector.
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Goingbush
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Thanks, all great information, I'll remember the injector blocking idea

Just need to reiterate what Marcus said, Tyre Pliers are fantastic, I was skeptical till I saw a demonstration, now will never go without them, much better than driving over the wheels or using slide hammer / hi lift jack etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-TYxLyQh04

I fitted my locally made off road wheels today.
Posted Image

Posted Image

I decided on Federal Couragia M/T 35x12.5R17 basically because they were the only 125Q Rated tyres I could find in stock in Australia, They are 10 Ply rated.

I mounted the tyres onto the rims myself , not so much as to save a few $$ but just to make sure I could fit them myself incase I need to do it trackside. I'll be carrying a spare carcass. I used Truck Tyre balance beads inside the tyre instead of wheel weights, so no need to visit a tyre dealer.

Also don't forget to bring a Satellite phone, (we use Isatphone pro) instead of carrying a truck load spares you can always order a part in, might take a few weeks but at least we are set up for remote camping . There is no GSM / 3G coverage for 90% of Australia landmass.
Also SPOT tracker is well worthwhile.
https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php?id=6068512d909cbe627

Edited by Goingbush, Oct 2 2013, 01:09 AM.
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marcustuck
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Hi Bazil-S,

Great suggestion for injector problems thanks. Does anyone have a scrap injector I could have or damaged injector pipe I can turn into a blanking plug?

Hi Goingbush,

Your trucks looking good. The Spot does not have coverage in Southern Africa so I'm giving it a miss. I have two Thuraya sat phones, they cover from Botswana North so should be good for most of our trip. What I like about Thuraya is they can also roam on the local GSM network so I am buying a couple of dual SIM phones and I can run a local SIM and the Thuraya SIM together when in GSM coverage. That way I can give friends and family one number to call but I can make cheap calls on the local sim from the same phone. When outside GSM I just go back to Satallite, you also don't have to use up your credit within a specific time.
Edited by marcustuck, Oct 2 2013, 03:28 AM.
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