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Van won't start - battery fine
Topic Started: Mar 13 2014, 02:05 PM (1,297 Views)
Pidea
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Hi all, went to start the van (it's a 2.8 35s13) earlier after having been left for around 3 weeks and it won't start at all.

All lights on the dashboard came on as normal and the lift pump whined as normal too. Interior lights and heater fan worked so I'm sure it's not the battery.

Turning the key results in nothing happening at all. There are no warning lights on the dash, the injector light isn't on. It's almost as if the immobiliser is stuck on. I've only got one key so can't try another unfortunately. I understand that there's a chip in the key but not a battery - is that the case ?

As a precaution I connected my car to the vans battery and tried starting the van but still nothing happened. The car revs did drop a bit when I connected the batteries though.

Any ideas ? We've had the ECU replaced about a year ago and the van has been running perfectly up until today ....

Thanks in advance

Phil
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Bazil-S
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Hi,

What do you mean by "nothing happens ..." the engine doesn't crank, or does not ignite?
If the starter motor does not engage, it may be faulty the ignition switch...
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Pidea
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By nothing happens I mean exactly that, there's no click from the starter motor, the engine doesn't turn over - absolutely nothing happens. The usual lights on the dashboard stay on though - it's very weird. Three weeks ago it was running perfectly. And yes, there's plenty of diesel in the tank ....
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Bazil-S
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It is not related to immobilizer, the starter motor has a problem, or the ignition switch.
The starter control wire is green and has the code 8888, try to power directly on starter to 8888 wire terminal.
Use a parallel cable for test, that you will connect to the starter terminal, first!!! and then to the positive terminal of the battery. Keep connected only until the engine starts!

ATTENTION! the gearbox must be in neutral and the parking brake engaged!
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Pidea
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Thanks for the reply - where would I find the starter control wire ? Actually on the starter itself ?
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Bazil-S
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Yes, on the starter is a solenoid. On the solenoid there are two thick red wires that are covered by a plastic box and a thinner wire, green color and his terminal is covered by a rubber sleeve. The control wire is green one and is thinner.
Normally would be, do not use the cable for testing, because it is dangerous. First would be smart to made ​​some measurements with a test lamp, or a multimeter.
This requires someone to assist you, to turn the key to start position and you to do the measurements on the green wire terminal.
Also you can try to turn the key to start position, to keep it in that position while trying to jiggle.
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Pidea
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OK thanks - will try it tomorrow
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Troglodyte
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Try moving the wire mentioned by basil on the starter whilst some one tries to start it , but as mentioned earlier make sure it is in neutral
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Rosiebear
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Has, still have, this problem on my 50C18. I couldn't find any fault, I pulled the steering wheel shroud off and exposed the key barrel and wiring loom, pulled the spade terminals apart with the green 8888 wires from the starter switch. The key switch does supply current to the 8888 wire but that wire crosses back under the dash into mystery territory to the left side and into the engine bay and down to the starter solenoid, no current at that end, it dies under the dash somewhere I believe it would have to be fused, but I cant find a fuse anywhere. Just got fed-up with it and fitted a big red START button above the agile gear stick and ran another fused wire from the battery through that to the starter, no probs now, except no interlock, have to remember to have foot on brake and make sure in neutral before starting. Been 6-8 months only forgot a couple of times. Need to put some more time in on that one or work out an interlock.
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Spooky_b329
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You can also discount any earthing issues by using your jump leads to connect the battery negative directly to the engine block, and directly to the chassis. If the engine strap or body cable is corroded you will bypass it allowing the engine to start.
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ivecofd
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If the battery is a bit low the solenoid may not engage the starter contact, partial/no action.
The dash lights can illuminate when the battery is low.
When the starter key is turned to start a switch disengages all power to utilities so that all the battery power goes to the starter motor.
You needed to check the battery with a multimeter - the drop in revs of your car indicates that the van's battery was low or the car battery was low/small/poor connection.
You need to check the van for a parasitic battery draw. eg bad switch, switch left on, clock running down the battery.
If the starter contact is dirty/broken the power is restricted/does not go to the motor.
If the solenoid windings are broken there is no action from the solenoid.
If the key switch contact is dirty power is restricted/no power goes to the solenoid.
If the circuit wire connections are loose/corroded/broken power supply is restricted/no supply.
If the earth is loose/corroded/broken power is restricted/no supply/partial/no action from solenoid, partial/no action from motor.

If the rotor commutator is dirty/damaged there is power loss/no power.
If the brushes are dirty/broken/worn there is power loss/no power.

An anti theft device can be fitted to this circuit.
Circuit diagram in attachments may not be for your vehicle. The 10 and 12 Dailys have two solenoids in the starter.


Earth (negative) contact areas can corrode and become loose.
Continuety needs to be assured.
Attached to this post:
Attachments: starter_circuit.jpg (16.25 KB)
Attachments: Starter_jump_housing.jpg (39.41 KB)
Attachments: starter_motor.jpg (27.18 KB)
Edited by ivecofd, Oct 5 2015, 11:11 AM.
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