These forums are free and rely upon the goodwill of members to help and assist others. Any donations will be gratefully received.
| You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. Join our community! If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: |
| vendor door/electric door problem; door doesn't work | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 10 2014, 02:45 PM (827 Views) | |
| plumber john | Apr 10 2014, 02:45 PM Post #1 |
Member
  ![]](http://z6.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)
|
Hi Guys, I have a daily 35s xlwb camper conversion that has a passenger vendor door, electric door, problem is that is doesn't work! I can her the relays clicking but nothing happens when I press the dash button, I've had a check of the fuses etc. which all seem fine, there is a green coloured relay (buzzer) behind the panel that houses the door mechanism that constantly buzzes so I've had to remove it, I thought this could be causing the problem thinking that the ecu is not recognising the door is closed? I assume this buzzer is connected via the door catch, there is also a door step light and that switches off ok when I manually close the door but the buzzer still sounds.. any help and guidance will be very much appreciated.. I thought I'd add a few pics to help Thanks John
|
 |
 
|
| plumber john | May 31 2014, 06:32 PM Post #2 |
|
Member
|
Hi all, I've managed to get my vendor door to work by remote control using a winch remote and a series of relays, to achieve this I've done away with the ecu that previously controlled the door as it was faulty.. The only problem is that the electric motor is running a bit fast! And as a result the door opens and closes a bit harshly, I assume that the door ecu included a device that reduced the voltage to the electric motor? My question is, is there a component available that would reduce the voltage to the motor to assist a smoother operation of the door? Many thanks John |
|
|
|
| Bazil-S | Jun 1 2014, 07:59 AM Post #3 |
Member
|
Hi, Closing /opening door has two speeds, the low speed is not obtaining through the voltage reduction due to increases current absorbed by the motor. So the best solution is a PWM generator, which is an electronic device like the ECU which you removed. That ECU was fitted with a purpose, among others has safety features that you can not control with a few relays! The ECU replacement is very expensive, but in many cases it can be repaired. You will have to search for some electronics shops... there is a topic on this issues. Before replacing an ECU, it is mandatory to check the electric motor and the gear mechanism also the doors arms and locks. |
|
|
|
| plumber john | Jun 1 2014, 09:58 AM Post #4 |
|
Member
|
Thank Bazil, I've had a look at some PWM gens on eBay and it looks like one will do the job.. I've still got all the original controls in place but not being used, It's now working in such a way that the remote control fob has to be depressed for the door to work so if you take your thumb off the button everything stops, also I have wired through the door switches so that if the remote where to fail the power would be cut to the motor once the door is shut or fully opened.. It's just the speed that needs controlling now.. Cheers John |
|
|
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
van1.jpg (79.95 KB)
van2.jpg (112.11 KB)
van3.jpg (101.53 KB)
van5.jpg (98.13 KB)| « Previous Topic · Iveco Daily 1999-2006 (previously 3rd gen) · Next Topic » |