mystery oil leak

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mystery oil leak; oil leaking between engine and box
Tweet Topic Started: Apr 17 2014, 06:02 PM (2,377 Views)
Bazil-S	Apr 19 2014, 07:15 PM Post #16
Member Posts: 2,295 Group: Expert Member #195 Joined: June 7, 2010	Sorry because there isn't an easy way to fix the leak. Also I do not trust the oil additives. Maybe they can fix the oil leak, but can damage other components, who knows... Maybe if you find exactly the place where the leak starts and then try to clog with some silicone seal. Of course after an well cleaning and degreasing of that spot.



plumber john	Apr 19 2014, 07:23 PM Post #17
Member Posts: 173 Group: Member - Thanks for Donating Member #10,408 Joined: April 10, 2014	I'll not bother with the additive.. Drip catcher will have to do for now. Thanks for input Bazil



BlueBoy	Apr 19 2014, 10:00 PM Post #18
Member Posts: 64 Group: Members Member #10,258 Joined: March 19, 2014	If the crank case isn't pressurised I'd be wanting to use a good silicone first, to see how long it lasts. Even if you only get 6 months worth of protection, it's gotta be worth it? I know you'd want it done properly as anyone would though. Good bloody luck if you're hoiking that lump yourself dude lol



plumber john	Apr 20 2014, 07:37 AM Post #19
Member Posts: 173 Group: Member - Thanks for Donating Member #10,408 Joined: April 10, 2014	Certainly worth a shot of silicone BlueBoy I shall be on with that asap.. Cheers



BlueBoy	Apr 20 2014, 09:02 AM Post #20
Member Posts: 64 Group: Members Member #10,258 Joined: March 19, 2014	I use this stuff on my motorcycles. As racing machines they have a lot of servicing and refreshing of parts etc and it's just silly to buy gaskets all the time. If I were doing your leak, I'd be cleaning with an oil dispersant and then very lightly use a 1000grit sanding pad to lightly skim the area to be sealed (I presume at the moment it's were two surfaces meet). I'd then squirt this stuff (white is my choice so you can see any future contamination) onto a flat cardboard and use a small putty knife to push into the join area and when 'sealed' then skim the flat edge of the knife along the joined surfaces to ensure a clean smooth surface. I'd let that settle for an hour or so (this stuff starts to cure in that time) and then use the tube's nozzle to put a final bead along the same area, across the whole length of the components. But that's just me lol As Bazil says, cleaning is paramount, it's all in the preparation. I've used this stuff in a hurry and it held for a couple of hours. I've used it in pre-planned, step-by-step projects (rebuild) and the joins have not leaked once over an entire season and that's high pressure, high temps circa 300 degree (race engines practically cook themselves to death as the engines run on water) and all sorts of environments. Have fun :o) I use this stuff on my motorcycles. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PU18-SEALANT-ADHESIVE-SILICONE-STRONG-MARINE-RUBBER-POND-AUTO-GRP-CAR-WOOD-METAL-/221082176764?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&var=&hash=item3379864cfc As racing machines they have a lot of servicing and refreshing of parts etc and it's just silly to buy gaskets all the time. If I were doing your leak, I'd be cleaning with an oil dispersant and then very lightly use a 1000grit sanding pad to lightly skim the area to be sealed (I presume at the moment it's were two surfaces meet). I'd then squirt this stuff (white is my choice so you can see any future contamination) onto a flat cardboard and use a small putty knife to push into the join area and when 'sealed' then skim the flat edge of the knife along the joined surfaces to ensure a clean smooth surface. I'd let that settle for an hour or so (this stuff starts to cure in that time) and then use the tube's nozzle to put a final bead along the same area, across the whole length of the components. But that's just me lol As Bazil says, cleaning is paramount, it's all in the preparation. I've used this stuff in a hurry and it held for a couple of hours. I've used it in pre-planned, step-by-step projects (rebuild) and the joins have not leaked once over an entire season and that's high pressure, high temps circa 300 degree (race engines practically cook themselves to death as the engines run on water) and all sorts of environments. Have fun :o) Edited by BlueBoy, Apr 20 2014, 09:03 AM.



ivecojoe	Apr 20 2014, 10:06 AM Post #21
Member Posts: 964 Group: Members Member #2,232 Joined: September 7, 2011	If in futuare you do pull engine my advice take the box with it, its much easier to put back in complete! let us know if you seal sump and it works.cheers



plumber john	Apr 20 2014, 12:28 PM Post #22
Member Posts: 173 Group: Member - Thanks for Donating Member #10,408 Joined: April 10, 2014	Cheers BlueBoy, hopefully it'll a least quell the leak, being in the plumbing job I'm blinking covered in silicone best of times lol, use the high temp stuff on AGA's too, Best stuff I've used is Adiseal, sets under water amongst other things.. Anyway, I'm drifting off the subject a bit! Like you say mate it's all in the prep.. Just hope I can locate the main area and its not worse at the back end, hopefully get some time to have a crack at it next weekend.. Ivecojoe.. If the block does come out it won't be me doing it.. He'll of a lump!! Fingers crossed for the silicone mate.. I'll update.. Cheers



Leosharpe	Apr 22 2014, 04:51 PM Post #23
Member Posts: 48 Group: Members Member #9,679 Joined: January 7, 2014	Bazil-S Apr 18 2014, 06:25 PM Hi, Usually, the engine is removed in cases like this. It is very hard to get in that part of the engine. Preseeding to have reasonable prices, the industrial endoscopes, I used a modified web cam. Hi i think i have found my leak its from the top of the engine as on your diagram what is that part is that please Edited by Leosharpe, Apr 22 2014, 05:16 PM.



Leosharpe	May 7 2014, 06:47 PM Post #24
Member Posts: 48 Group: Members Member #9,679 Joined: January 7, 2014	Any help with this please .



markthelark	May 7 2014, 07:22 PM Post #25
Member Posts: 656 Group: Members Member #4,879 Joined: May 15, 2012	Not sure , but looks like a pump to me , either fuel or vacuum. Someone will be along soon to confirm what it is.



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