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| 35S11 not starting | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 26 2014, 09:10 AM (974 Views) | |
| mfoobar | Jun 26 2014, 09:10 AM Post #1 |
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I've seen a few topics on this, so read through them, but thought I'd still post here in case anyone has any further ideas. I have a 2000 35S11. It is the non-common rail 2.8 engine. So no lift pump on the chassis rail. I use the van every other day and it runs fine, never a problem starting. Sometimes it might take a bit of cranking as I believe there might be a slight air leak in one of the fuel lines, and takes a while for the fuel to come back up if sat for a few days. Last night I briefly shifted it to a different parking spot, engine started fine and was only running for a minute or two as a shifted it. This morning went to start it and it wouldn't fire. It turned over just fine, and all the normal lights were on the dash. There was no 'key' light on. But did feel a bit like the immobiliser not unlocked. I will try and find my spare key and give that a go this evening. It is a camper, and I have a 'self jump' facility where I can bridge the starter battery with the two leisure batteries in the back. Those batteries are topped up with solar so always full. With them on the starter turned even faster than usual, but still not start. The rev counter went up a bit when turning over, so I presume that the rev counter sensor is working. There is about 1/4 of a tank of diesel at the moment. I also tried pumping the diesel primer a few times to see if that would prime it in case there wasn't fuel, but I could see fuel in the lines, so I think was OK. I'm going to try grabbing a can of easy start on the way home and see if that starts it. I've not tried it before, do you just spray some into the big air intake in the engine bay near the battery? Or is that one just for the cab ventilation? I'm also going to try and put it in gear and roll it a bit and see if that turns the engine over a bit in case it is a stuck sensor or something. Any other thoughts? How exactly does one go about 'cracking the injectors'? How do I get to the injectors? I presume I need to remove the plastic cover off the top of the engine block? Not sure what else needs to come out to get that off. I seem to remember the coolant reservoir is right above it. -Matt Edited by mfoobar, Jun 26 2014, 09:12 AM.
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| plumber john | Jun 26 2014, 12:28 PM Post #2 |
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Could be your key, but fast cranking could be cam belt snapped! Hopefully not.. |
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| mfoobar | Jun 26 2014, 01:28 PM Post #3 |
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Oh! I hope not the cambelt. Actually, I changed it myself a few week's back. All has been fine. I have driven quite a bit since then, and if the belt has snapped/loosened/come off it probably would have been whilst going down the motorway, and not after a 1-minute drive moving parking spaces. But I'll check and see.... hrm.... is there an obvious way to see from in the engine bay without taking the cambelt cover off? -Matt |
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| mfoobar | Jun 26 2014, 08:56 PM Post #4 |
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OK, got it to start. I got some easy start and sprayed it in the air intake as turning it over. Don't worry... yes I did realise the big intake near the battery is for the cab  I had my son spray it in the gap beside the radiator. Looking at the fuel lines when the engine was running I did see some tiny pin-prick sided air bubbles on the line into the fuel filter... are they normal? But then I did see quite some large air bubbles passing out the fuel filter. So I'm guessing there may be a leak in the fuel filter. I gave it a feel and was able to turn it by hand about another 1/8 of a turn quite easily. So not sure if it was just a bit loose. I'll check for bubbles again after a bit of a drive. Otherwise what might be wrong? I can try replacing the fuel filter to see if that is the issue. Could air be coming in on the fiel line connectors? They look like some sort of quick release type? Do they fail? Any tips on checking them? -Matt |
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